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Santiago, Chile

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Airport: Santiago Arturo Merino Benitez (SCL)
Served by: American Airlines, Iberia, LAN

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City Statistics

Location: Metropolitan Region, Chile.
Time zone: GMT - 4 (GMT - 3 from second Sunday in October to second Sunday in March).
Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temperatures: 21°C (70°F).
Average July temperatures: 9°C (48°F).
Annual rainfall: 384mm (15.1 inches).

Overview

Santiago de Chile is a spirited, effervescent city, splashed with colour from its lively fish markets, colourful street stalls, colonial architecture and vibrant food scene. Santiago is the financial and political capital of Chile, and also its cultural capital. Its fine art galleries, such as the Palacio de Bellas Artes, compete with cutting edge contemporary galleries. Chile’s artists may draw inspiration from the diversity of this sinuous country, but it is in Santiago they choose to exhibit. It’s also best to follow those artists to the bars. Recently, Barrio Brazil, one of Santiago’s oldest areas with cobbled streets and grand housing, has boasted the most interesting nightlife. Middle class Santaguenos often prefer chichi Bellavista, Las Condes or, increasingly, Ñuñoa for an evening of drinking the country’s excellent wine and nibbling on little dishes of fish recently caught from the nearby Pacific. Santiago is a product of its setting. Sprawled across the fertile Santiago valley, 100km (62 miles) from the Pacific coast, the city is dominated by the vast belt of the Andes to the east and a smaller coastal mountain range to the west. Since its foundation by a small band of Spanish conquistadors in 1541, Santiago has developed as a reflection of its trials and successes. After independence from Spain in 1818, Spanish and Italians in particular sailed in their thousands to start a new life around the abundant Santiago Valley. And like Buenos Aires in neighbouring Argentina, it has retained a Mediterranean air – most apparent in its food. But the city has not lost sight of its indigenous heritage. It may be a crude example, but the biggest football team in the city, Colo Colo (don’t ever say they are the biggest to a fan from arch-rival Universidad de Chile) has an indigenous Mapuche cacique on the logo – and Chileans of all backgrounds admire and identify with the Mapuche as a symbol of the country’s strength and independence, whether in the face of violent regimes, natural disasters, or the poverty that affects Chile as much as other South American countries. Yet, on the surface at least, Santiago appears wealthier, more developed and more, well, Western, than many of its neighbours. In the bustling city centre, modern structures sit alongside colonial buildings, and the 18th-century cathedral is reflected in a glass-fronted tower block. Partly thanks to the successful exportation of its natural resources and its alignment with the Regan/Thatcher economies throughout the 1980s, Santiago has always enjoyed more inward investment than Argentina. But at what human cost? The horrors of the Pinochet regime are well-documented, not least in the city’s monuments and museums such as Villa Grimaldi Peace Park and the Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende, the latter commemorating the leftwing leader ousted by Pinochet. But what impression will the 21st century visitor leave with? Well, surprise firstly, this is an underrated city that requires time to understand its nuances, to uncover its fine, but rustic, cuisine, and really get to know its lovable citizens, and also the vim of its street life and vigour of those who inhabit them.

Getting There By Air

Airlines offering flights to Santiago from the UK include Lufthansa, Iberia, Delta, KLM and Air France. There are no direct flights from London; most go through European hubs or in the case of Delta, Atlanta.

From London - 20 hours; New York -10 hours; Los Angeles -14 hours; Toronto -16 hours; Sydney - 18 hours.

Santiago Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (SCL)
Tel: (02) 690 1752/3.
Web: www.aeropuertosantiago.cl
Santiago Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport is located 15km (9.5 miles) northwest of central Santiago.

Airport facilities:
Santiago Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport has banks, ATM machines and bureaux de change located within the terminals.

Getting Around

Public Transport: It is clean, friendly but can get very busy. Transantiago (tel: 600 730 0073, in Chile only; www.transantiagoinforma.cl) has an ambitious plan to overhaul the city's public transport infrastructure – due for completion in 2025, but so far has proved woefully inadequate to current needs. Tarjeta Bip! travel cards (tel: 800 730 073; www.transantiagoinforma.cl/tarjetaBip.do (in Spanish only)) are valid for travel on Santiago's Metro system and buses; you can buy these at Metro ticket offices. Each single fare on a Bip! card covers up to three interconnected metro/bus journeys over a period of two hours. The modern Metro system, Metro de Santiago, (tel: 600 730 0073, in Chile only; www.metrosantiago.cl) is still the easiest way to travel around Santiago, and is for the most part clean, efficient and reliable. The Metro system has five lines which operate daily, closing overnight. Santiago's city buses are run by private companies. Those on the major 'trunk' routes are painted white with green stripes, while other buses have different colours according to the zones they serve.
Taxis: There is no shortage of taxis, which are black with yellow roofs. Get a good idea of the price first. Taxis should have meters. Women travelling alone at night should exercise caution. Radio Taxi Andes-Pacífico (tel: (02) 204 0530; www.andespacifico.cl) and Radio Taxi Centro (tel: (02) 697 0106; www.rtcentro.cl) are reliable, well-established minicab firms.
Driving in the City: Driving in Santiago is a headache, with congestion to rival any European or North American metropolis. Many of the more upmarket hotels have a guest car park. There are two car parks close to Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (Alameda). These are at Calle San Francisco 75 (tel: (02) 632 4024) and outside Calle Santa Rosa 76 (tel: (02) 460 8555. Many urban streets offer metered parking.
Car Hire: Most car hire companies require the driver to be 22 years or over. Insurance is usually additional to the car rate and is recommended. Providers include Chilean Rent A Car (tel: (02) 737 9650; www.chileanrentacar.cl), Avis (tel: (02)690 1382; www.avis.co.uk) and Rosselot (tel: (02) 690 1374; www.rosselot.cl).
Bicycle Hire: Cycling is becoming a lot easier in central Santiago. Many of the city's parks have cycle lanes, there is a lovely riverside route and along the winding lanes of Cerro San Cristobál. You can hire mountain bikes from LYS Rent-a-Car, Calle Miraflores 537 (tel: (02) 633 7600; www.lys.cl).

Hotels

Hotels

Santiago can cater to most accommodation tastes and budgets. High-rollers can choose between dependable luxury chains or stylish boutique hotels while budget travellers need not stay in dives - the city is such a backpacker thoroughfare these days that there are plenty of low-cost places to stay. Most of the high-end options tend to be clustered in the financial district of Las Condes, while there are a couple of good-value mid-range hotels in Parque Forestal. Bellavista and Barrio Brasil have the most for budget visitors.

The Santiago hotels below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Luxury (over US$250)
Moderate (US$75 to US$250)
Cheap (up to US$75)
These Santiago hotel prices are the starting prices for a standard double room and include relevant taxes and breakfast unless otherwise specified.



Cheap

Bellavista Hostel
As the name suggests, this hostel is in the chichi area of the city. The Bellavista is a well-regarded hostel for backpackers who enjoy the breakfast and internet access which is included in the price. There are mixed dorms and female dorms as well as a couple of private bedrooms and an apartment (only for those over 35!). There's also a games room and barbecue area.

Dardignac 0184, Providencia
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 899 7145.
Web: www.bellavista.hostel.com

Hotel Foresta
This beautifully located hotel (right by Cerro Santa Lucía) has been around for a while. It has kept its old style, which means it is chock full of character, although sometimes this spills over into a slightly cluttered feel. However, the service is very attentive and with the arty district of Lastarria right next door, it is one of the best and most affordable options in town.

Subercaseaux 353
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 639 6261.
Web: forestahotel.cl/pag-in/i/11655

Happy House Hostel
A superb, ambitious renovation makes this colourful converted Barrio Brasil mansion the place to head to satisfy your old bohemian instincts - even though you now have more cash in your pockets. With everything from a games room to a delightful patio with views right over the city, this lovely relaxed place is for former backpackers who can afford to indulge themselves a bit more.

Catedral 2207
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 688 4849.
Web: www.happyhousehostel.cl/

Luxury

W Santiago
Starwood Hotel's W chain has landed in Santiago, with a blaze of imaginative lighting, colourful fittings and quirky furnishings. Compared with many of the W hotels around the world, this is tempered slightly by Chile's conservative tastes – no bad thing. The 168 rooms are well appointed. The level of service is unsurprisingly high. The rooftop pool is an interesting place to spend a few hours relaxing, and the bar is excellent.

Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Las Condes
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 770 0000.
Web: www.starwoodhotels.com

Ritz Carlton
This is the latest in hotel opulence in Santiago, where the service is impeccable, Egyptian sheets adorn your bed and there is just about every luxury you could possibly desire within the hotel's walls. Gyms, swimming pools, three restaurants and an internationally renowned sommelier are all available to those lucky enough to stay here.

Calle El Alcalde 15
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 470 8500.
Web: www.ritzcarlton.com/

Hotel Galerias
Impeccable modern rooms and efficient staff make this a popular choice among the business jet-set. Two Easter Island style statues guard the entrance to this plush hotel, upgraded in 2005 with an extensive refurbishment, and the South America décor theme is visible throughout. There is also a fine restaurant, the Vichuquén.

San Antonio 65
Santiago
Chile
Web: www.hotelgalerias.cl/

Moderate

ChilHotel
Perhaps the most sensible option of any of the these listings, ChilHotel is practical, comfortable and affordable. On a quiet street within easy walking distance of the Metro in Providencia, it is the sort of place you would be happy to put your parents on a visit to the city with its good-value rooms (although some err on the small side) and polite service.

Cirujano Guzmán 103
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 264 0643.
Web: www.chilhotel.cl/

Best Western Hotel Majestic
A quirky, rambling hotel with a fine Indian restaurant and very accommodating staff. This is one of the best value mid-range options in the central part of the city - although the surrounding area is too quiet at night for some tastes. You can usually negotiate a discount if you are staying for more than one night.

Santo Domingo 1526
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 690 9400.
Web: www.hotelmajestic.cl/

Hotel Plaza San Francisco
This smart hotel has gleaming wood panels and courteous staff. Comfortable (sometimes luxurious) and efficient, it has a central location particularly convenient for business professionals. It is located on Santiago's busiest road, but the hotel's double-glazing shields the guests from noise.

Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins 816 (Alameda)
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 360 4445.
Web: www.plazasanfrancisco.cl/

Business Etiquette

Financial life in Santiago remains formal both in dress code and conduct. In a business environment, usted, the polite Spanish form of address, should be used instead of the more familiar tu. Failure to observe this linguistic etiquette could be construed as disrespectful or even arrogant. Some Chilean executives speak reasonably competent English but any attempt to use Spanish, however faltering, will be greatly appreciated.

Like their counterparts in North America and Europe, members of Chile's business community make good use of the working lunch. Meanwhile, Santiago's international hotels have benefited in recent years from the increased popularity of the ‘business breakfast'. Chileans are generally very hospitable and it is not unknown for foreign business travellers to be invited to dinner at home.

Chile generally follows the North American model of the working day, Monday to Friday 0900-1800, although Chilean business workers are known for working long hours.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: Santiago is not as famed for its architectural heritage as other Latin American cities such as Mexico City or Buenos Aires. Those visiting Chile for leisure are unlikely to make it a highlight of their trip and most take only a fleeting glimpse before leaving the city to uncover the country's natural wonders.

Nevertheless, Santiago has much to offer travellers eager for cultural diversion and serene oases can be found in even the most fume-choked streets of the downtown area.

Visitors will find a city of lively markets, atmospheric old quarters and shady parks with thriving artistic, social and cultural scenes. The city's museums, albeit small, boast impressive collections, while quality cuisine is accessible to those on even the tightest of budgets. Note that many of the city's museums are free on Sunday.

Santiago is easy to master, as many of the city's main attractions are located in the small downtown area sandwiched between the Rio Mapocho (Mapocho River), Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins (the Alameda) and Cerro Santa Lucía.

Bellavista, just north of the river, is a popular area for its handicraft shops, restaurants and nightlife. It is situated below Cerro San Cristobál, which looms over the city.
Tourist Information: Servicio Nacional de Turismo - SERNATUR (National Tourism Board)
Avenida Providencia 1550
Tel: (02) 731 8336/7 or 600 737 6288, in Chile only.
Website: www.sernatur.cl
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1400.

SERNATUR has another office in the arrivals hall of the airport's international terminal:
Tel: (02) 601 9320.
Opening hours: Daily 0815-2000.

Oficina de Turismo Municipalidad de Santiago (Santiago Tourist Office)

Casa Colorada, Merced 860
Tel: (02) 632 7783.
Website: www.municipalidaddesantiago.cl
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 1000-1700.

There is another city tourist office on the Terraza Neptuno on Cerro Santa Lucía, and an excellent, more localised office in Providencia (Providencia 2359; tel: (02) 374 2743; http://citi.providencia.cl), open Monday to Friday 0900-2000 and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1900.
Passes: There are no tourist passes currently available in Santiago.

Key Attractions

Casa Colorada (Coloured House)
This 18th-century colonial mansion just off the Plaza de Armas is an attraction in itself, with its elegant facade and rose-coloured walls. It also houses the Museo de Santiago (Santiago Museum) in five rooms, which has amateurish but informative displays on the city's history from pre-Columbian times to the development of today's modern sprawl. It includes paintings, ephemera and dioramas. There's also an auditorium and concert space.


Calle Merced 680
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 633 0723.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1100-1400.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Cementerio General
Until recently, this has been one of Santiago's hidden treasures, but it is now growing in popularity. This is no ordinary burial ground, more a mini-metropolis of extraordinary tombs. Some are extravagant, some are beautiful, almost all are striking in one way or another. It's also of great historical interest – several leading politicians are buried here, including Salvador Allende, and there is a memorial to all those who disappeared during the Pinochet years. As a necropolis, it rivals those in Buenos Aires.


Profesor Alberto Zañartu 951
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 737 9469.
Web: www.cementeriogeneral.cl
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St Francis)
Just off Santiago's hectic main thoroughfare, the thick walls of the Iglesia de San Francisco, with the adjacent Franciscan Monastery, provide a peaceful haven from the downtown traffic. The church was originally built in the late 16th century by Chile's conquistador, Pedro de Valdivia, and it has survived regular earthquakes (although its tower has gone through several incarnations). It is one of Santiago's oldest buildings and the adjacent former monastery houses the Museo Colonial San Francisco (Colonial Museum of St Francis), which contains a collection of ecclesiastical art dating from the colonial era.

which contains a collection of ecclesiastical art dating from th
(Colonial Museum of St Francis)
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 639 8737.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 1000-1300 and 1500-1800, Sun 1000-1400.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Casa La Chascona (La Chascona House Museum)
Nobel-Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda's Santiago pied-à-terre is situated in the lively Bellavista neighbourhood. He built the house himself for a lover and also hosted his distinguished friends including the Mexican artist Diego Riviera there. A series of small buildings, rather than a single house, La Chascona has been meticulously restored since it was vandalised by supporters of General Pinochet and now houses a collection of Neruda's possessions. Visitors are taken on a guided tour (Spanish, English or French) through the house, where the history behind the furniture and possessions is explained – there's no self guided tour. The Fundacion Neruda also look after the marvellous nautically-themed for home of the poet Isla Negra in El Quisco on the sea and La Sebastiana in Valparaíso.


Fernando Márquez de la Plata 0192
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 777 8741.
Web: www.fundacionneruda.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (Mar-Dec); Tues-Sun 1000-1900 (Jan-Feb).
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art)
This museum is closed until late 2013 to undergo an extensive expansion project adding 1,000 square metres of space and increasing the exhibition space by 70 per cent. When it opens again it will improve on its world-class collection of artefacts from Latin America's pre-Hispanic civilisations. Located in a handsome colonial building, the Palacio de la Real Aduana (Royal Customs House), it exhibits intricately crafted artwork in ceramics, metals, textiles and wood. Tastefully presented and meticulously cared for, the items on show give a unique insight into the lost cultures of the Maya, Aztecs, Incas and other groups which once dominated this vast continent.


Bandera 361
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 688 7348.
Web: www.precolombino.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Histórico Nacional (National History Museum)
The colonial Palacio de la Real Audiencia houses the absorbing Museo Histórico Nacional, which has a fine series of chronological exhibits on Chile's development from the colonial period through to independence and the modern era, ending abruptly with the military coup in 1973. There is a small exhibit on Chile's indigenous culture. In addition to the permanent exhibitions it also plays host to temporary exhibitions, concerts and workshops. Guided visits are available throughout the day and if you have children it's worth joining one. Even if their Spanish isn't up to much, they'll enjoy dressing up. An excellent destination.


Plaza de Armas
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 411 7000.
Web: www.museohistoriconacional.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende (Salvador Allende Museum of Solidarity)
This museum, which has changed locations several times in recent years, houses works of art donated by artists from around the world. The collection began in 1971 when a group of artists and thinkers decided to bring together contemporary works of art to show their sympathy with the socialist policies of the Salvador Allende government. During Pinochet's military dictatorship, exiled artists continued the project and the collection now includes donations by artists from over 39 countries such as Joan Miró, Roberto Matta, Antonio Saura and Yoko Ono. From the 500 works gathered by 1973, there are now more than 2,650. There's also a brilliant programme of temporary exhibitions across all media.


Avenida República 475
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 689 8761.
Web: www.museodelasolidaridad.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts)
This fine arts museum, housed in a turn-of-the-century copy of Paris' Petit Palais, shows the city's aspirations to lift itself out of the cultural wilderness. It occupies an entire block in the Parque Forestal area and has Chile's best collection of painting and sculpture. It regularly hosts exhibitions by contemporary artists from Chile and abroad. Perhaps the most interesting displays are from the early colonial artists charting the growth of the modern nation. There's a comprehensive programme of temporary exhibitions. Recent exhibitions have included retrospectives of Guillermo Brozález and Celia Castro. It's also worth checking the website for the concerts it hosts.


Parque Forestal
Santiago
Chile
Tel: (02) 633 4472.
Web: www.mnba.cl
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1850.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes

Culture

If you're interested in sampling culture within the city, there is a wealth of things on offer.Classical Music

Instituto Cultural de Providencia

This cultural venue has a packed range of exhibitions and concerts throughout the year. There's a cinema, a theatre stage, plus exhibition halls and live music stage. The exhibition space has seen most mediums of work from photography to sculpture; meanwhile the stages see mostly classical or jazz concerts. There's a worthwhile sculpture garden outside with some remarkable pieces.11 de Septiembre 1995
Santiago
Chile

Tel: (02) 784 8600.
Web: http://www.proviarte.cl


Music and Dance

Centro Cultural Estación Mapocho

This is a truly amazing venue. It is a huge, and beautiful, converted train station. The result is one of the more singular cultural centres. It was inaugurated in 1994, and now receives more than a million visitors a year. The size allows conferences and fairs such as the Feria del Libro that saw Patti Smith perform poetry recently, The programme includes music, dance, jazz, art exhibitions and photography – but its worth going to see the building alone.Plaza de la Cultura
Santiago
Chile

Tel: (02) 787 0000.
Web: http://www.estacionmapocho.cl


Theatre

Teatro Municipal

Teatro Municipal is an ornate 19th-century theatre built in a European style by Frenchman Charles Garnier, architect of the casino in Monte Carlo. The Santiago Ballet and the Santiago Philharmonic Orchestra both perform here, often together, and it has been the scene of some world-class tango performances. There's hour-long also lunchtime concerts at cheaper prices.Calle Agustinas 794
Santiago
Chile

Tel: (02) 463 8888 or 1000.
Web: http://www.municipal.cl


Teatro Nacional
Teatro Nacional is a highly reputable and puts on more contemporary productions. It opened in 1941 as the Teatro Imperio, becoming the National Theatre in 1975. There are usually five or six major productions every year plus a wide range of touring acts. It occasionally puts on theatre shows for children. Live music fans should also check out the listings first.Calle Morandé 25
Santiago
Chile

Tel: (02) 696 1200.
Web: http://www.tnch.uchile.cl

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