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Buenos Aires, Argentina

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Airport: Ministro Pistarini International (EZE) International Airport
Served by: American Airlines, British Airways, Iberia, LAN, Qantas

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City Statistics

Location: Provincia de Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Time zone: GMT - 3 (GMT - 2 from early October to late February).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-round-pin plugs are standard.

Overview

The romance of crumbly European architecture and cobbled streets makes Buenos Aires an alluring city, but it is the food that wins most hearts. While pavements are peppered with potholes, no one seems to understand when a Subte (underground train) carriage is full and tourists regularly find themselves in possession of fake bank notes, the slabs of steak, scoops of dulce de leche and oodles of smooth red wine never fail to impress. Daytimes in Buenos Aires can be filled with many pleasant activities – from basking in leafy parks to browsing art galleries – but it is at night that the city is in its element. Come 2100, parrillas (grill restaurants) fill up rapidly, with hungry tables enjoying a variety of animal parts charred to perfection. New bars open weekly – the San Telmo and Palermo neighbourhoods are particular hotspots – and many milongas (tango halls) and dance clubs are still thriving at sunrise.

Getting There By Air

British Airways offer direct flights to Buenos Aires from the UK, as do the Argentine carrier Condor. Indirect flights include Iberia (via Madrid), TAP (via Lisbon) and KLM (via Amsterdam). The most expensive time to visit is during the summer months of January and February, but cheap flights to Buenos Aires can generally be found the rest of the year.From London - 13 hours; New York - 11 hours; Los Angeles - 16 hours; Toronto - 13 hours; Sydney - 16 hours.

Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE)
Tel: (011) 5480 2500.
Web: www.aa2000.com.ar
Buenos Aires Ministro Pistarini International Airport is situated at Ezeiza, 22km (13 miles) southwest of Buenos Aires.

Airport facilities:
There are several bureaux de change and ATMs in each terminal. A bank with 24-hour services operates in Terminal A.


Aeroparque International Jorge Newbery (AEP)
Tel: (011) 5480 6111
Web: www.aa2000.com.ar
Jorge Newbery airport is situated just 4km (2.5 miles) from Buenos Aires city centre, on the Costanera Norte beside the Rio de la Plata.

Airport facilities:
Tourist information, banking and bureau de change, left luggage and car hire facilities are all available. There are also frequent connections to the International Airport.

Getting Around

Public Transport: The cheapest way to get around Buenos Aires is by bus (www.loscolectivos.com.ar) or on the underground, known locally as Subte (www.subte.com.ar). Pay for buses with coins once onboard – many operate 24 hours a day. For the 6-line Subte, buy pre-paid Subtecards from boleterias (ticket booths) at each station. Trains are operated by Trenes de Buenos Aires (tel: 0800 333 3822) and Ferrovias (tel: 0800 777 3377; www.ferrovias.com.ar) and are a good way of getting to nearby towns.
Taxis: Yellow and black taxis can be easily hailed from the pavement. An extra safe option is to telephone a radio taxi; a reputable company is Radio Taxi Pidalo (tel: (011) 4956 1200). Remises – fixed-fare taxis booked in advance – generally work out cheaper, especially for airport runs. Trusted companies include ABC (tel: (011) 4315 6070) and Remises Universal (tel: (011) 4315 6555).
Driving in the City: Traffic in the city centre is heavily congested, but the grid system is reasonably easy to master, with arrows indicating the directions on street signs. Accidents are common - one tip is to slow down and flash the vehicle lights when approaching cross intersections without traffic lights at night. Microcentro (the financial centre of Buenos Aires) is off limits to traffic between 0700 and 2100. Parquimetros (parking meters) operate 0700-2100 on weekdays in the Macrocentro (outer city), and take tokens (fichas) purchased from kiosks or coin machines. Numerous estacionamientos (car parks) or playas (parking bays) are usually marked by flag-waving dummies.
Car Hire: Car hire companies in Buenos Aires include Avis (tel: (011) 4378 9640; www.avis.com.ar) and Budget (tel: (011) 4314 7717; www.budget.com.ar). Drivers must be at least 21 years old but some companies state 25 years. A valid driving licence is acceptable but an International Driving Permit is recommended.
Bicycle Hire: A new Buenos Aires cycle scheme means those who register at www.mejorenbici.gob.ar have free, two-hour use of yellow city bikes found at various points around Buenos Aires. For longer jaunts, road bikes and tandems can be hired from Bike Tours, 14th floor, Calle Florida 868 (tel: (011) 4311 5199; www.biketours.com.ar).

Hotels

Hotels
High-end and design hotels are becoming increasingly more common in Buenos Aires, from classic establishments such as the Alvear Palace, to the design-led Faena Hotel + Universe, and stylish boutique Home Hotel. Hostels of varying quality are everywhere, particularly in San Telmo, the city centre, and parts of Palermo. Most hotels are priced in US Dollars but discounts can sometimes be gained by paying in cash in Argentine Pesos. The Buenos Aires hotels below have been grouped into three pricing categories: Luxury (over US$300) Moderate (US$100 to US$300) Cheap (up to US$100) These Buenos Aires hotel prices are the starting prices for a standard double room, unless otherwise indicated.

Cheap

Telmo Tango
This friendly hostel in San Telmo is a clean and comfortable option for those new to Buenos Aires. Organised trips include outings to football games, and the manager, who speaks good English, is more than happy to fill newcomers in on what is going on in the city. The terrace on the top of the building unfortunately lacks any kind of view, but it is a nice little space in which to catch the sun away from the busy streets. Some rooms are much better than others – ask for one at the front of the building that benefits from a balcony.

Chacabuco 679, San Telmo
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4361 5808.
Web: www.hostelmotango.com

Hotel Frossard
This centrally located Buenos Aires hotel offers simple, modern facilities in an old, French-style house. Most visitors are attracted by reasonable prices and the ease of access to nearby cultural attractions, rather than charm or service. Offering bed and breakfast only, Hotel Frossard is surrounded by many of the city's finest cafés and restaurants, making it a great option for a cheap hotel in Buenos Aires.

Tucumán 686
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4322 1811.
Web: www.hotelfrossard.com.ar

La Otra Orilla
This Buenos Aires bed and breakfast is run by a mother and daughter who have opened their family home to guests. Rooms are very individual, two with shared bathrooms, reflected by a range of prices. The buffet breakfast is excellent, as is the central Palermo location and the leafy patio.

Julian Alvarez 1779
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4863 7426.

Luxury

Alvear Palace Hotel
The Alvear is in the upper league of world-class, luxury hotels in Buenos Aires. This elegant establishment has been a favourite with royals and diplomats since it opened in 1932. Conceived during the belle époque, the hotel is a symbol of that era, and some rooms contain reproductions of renowned pieces of French decorative art. The hotel has every comfort you could want and is a short walk from the best restaurants, boutiques and museums of Recoleta.

Avenida Alvear 1891, Recoleta
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4808 2100.
Web: www.alvearpalace.com

Faena Hotel + Universe
Leading the way for design hotels in Buenos Aires, the Faena Hotel + Universe has been crafted out of a former grain warehouse amid the docks of Puerto Madero. Designed by Philippe Starck, the interior is an eclectic mix of minimalist décor, regal furniture and quirky artefacts. This red-brick palace of 83 rooms also includes a spa, exquisite outdoor pool, state-of-the-art business centre and two stylish restaurants. Standard bedrooms are on the small side, but everything from the thick white linen to the complimentary chocolates is of the highest quality.

Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4010 9000.
Web: www.faenahotelanduniverse.com

Axel
The gay-friendly Axel hotel chain has brought its luxury formula to Buenos Aires. This popular hotel is located in the heart of San Telmo, close to cafés, eclectic shops and plenty of nightlife. The über-cool Sky Bar is certainly a place to 'be seen', and its Sunday night pool parties are a fun way to round off the weekend. An on-site wellness centre offers a menu of invigorating massages, as well as a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi.

Venezuela 649, San Telmo
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4136 9393.
Web: www.axelhotels.com

Moderate

Home Hotel
The multi award-winning Home Hotel is a tranquil and stylish retreat in trendy Palermo. Escape the crowds and oppressive heat in the Home Garden, complete with heated pool and soft green lawn. Scandinavian furniture sits amid luxurious French wallpaper in the 17 designer bedrooms, while the basement houses a sleek spa, with a range of massage, body and facial therapies.

Honduras 5860, Palermo Hollywood
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4778 1008.
Web: www.homebuenosaires.com

Art Hotel
Book ahead if you want to stay at this elegantly renovated town house, as its very reasonable prices make it justly popular. The 36 tastefully decorated rooms all contain works of art by Argentine artists. The art theme continues into the public areas where there is a gallery and swish bar. The historic city centre and Recoleta are a short walk away.

Azcuénaga 1268
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4821 4744.
Web: www.arthotel.com.ar

Buenos Aires Rent
Apartments in Buenos Aires are an excellent option even for short stays. They often provide a more authentic and relaxed experience at a very reasonable price. Buenos Aires Rent offers a range of good apartments for everyone from single travellers to big groups. Properties can be viewed online and the bilingual owner, Paula, is helpful both before and during your visit, and can provide a concierge service on request.

Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4998 9449.
Web: www.buenosairesrent.com

Business Etiquette

Business people in Buenos Aires are very conscious of status and expect to conduct any business dealings with people of an equal footing. Business cards are commonly exchanged by way of introduction. A handshake is standard when greeting a man; a kiss on each cheek when meeting a woman. In keeping with the general style of the city, smart dress is appropriate as is a high degree of respect.

Whenever possible, business in Buenos Aires should be conducted in Spanish although many Argentinian people do speak English as a second language. It's best to allow for plenty of room when organising business meetings as there can be a relaxed attitude towards timekeeping.

Normal business hours are Monday to Friday 0900 to 1900, or even later, and a siesta doesn't usually feature in Buenos Aires' business community. In general, conduct is similar to any large European city, with business deals often conducted over lunch.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: Eva Perón, tango and football are the three elements that Buenos Aires is famed for. Nevertheless, Buenos Aires is littered with museums and magnificent mansions and buildings. After sightseeing and shopping, there are peaceful parks to relax in and bars and cafés for sampling the excellent local cuisine.

Although initially confusing, the city is based on a grid system and is soon easy to master. The main point of orientation is the Avenida 9 de Julio, the world's widest avenue, running from Plaza Constitucion to Avenida de Libertador. Most places of interest are contained in the five main barrios (neighbourhoods) within the Microcentro so the attractions are easily accessible by foot.

The main square, Plaza de Mayo, is in the Buenos Aires's southeastern section, which boasts La Recoleta Cemetery, Evita's final resting place. Also in the centre are La City, the financial district, and Calle Florida and Lavalle - the pedestrianised shopping areas. South of the central area are the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, San Telmo and La Boca, while to the north lie the wealthier barrios of Retiro, Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.

The Obelisco never fails to catch the eye and this 67m-high (220ft) monument, together with the multi-lane avenue, in the middle of which it is located, has become a symbol of Buenos Aires.
Tourist Information: Centro de Información Turística (Tourist Information Centre)
Tel: 0800 999 2838.
Website: www.bue.gov.ar

The main tourist information centres are at Florida 100, Florida; Dock 4, Puerto Madero; Terminal De Ómnibus, Avenida Antártida Argentina, Retiro; Quintana 596, Recoleta; Defensa 1250, San Telmo.

Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación (National Tourism Office)
Avenida Santa Fe 883
Tel: 0800 555 0016.
Website: www.turismo.gov.ar

There are also National Tourism Information stands at the international and domestic airports.
Passes: There are no tourist passes available.

Key Attractions

Cementerio de Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery)
Recoleta's cemetery is a veritable village of the dead, with rows and rows of towering tombs housing the remains of many of Argentina's most revered – the most famous being the country's infamous First Lady, Maria Eva Duarte Perón, or Evita. Evita's burial site can easily be located by following the guided tour groups or by seeking out the mass of bouquets. The cemetery was founded in 1822 and also contains the tombs of writers, scientists, national heroes and former presidents, exhibiting a variety of architectural styles. Entry is free, although a map priced at a few pesos is a useful purchase. There are also usually tour guides on hand, offering inexpensive guided tours.

Calle Junín 1790
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4804 7040.
Web: www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1800. Free English language tours at 1100 Tues and Thurs (in fine weather only).
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden)
The Jardín Japonés in Palermo Park is one of the most pleasant open spaces in Buenos Aires, and is the perfect antidote to the noise and bustle of the city. Created in 1967 as a gift from the Emperor of Japan, the garden is a tranquil park of Asiatic shrubs and trees beautifully landscaped around a small lake bubbling with huge carp. The garden is something of a hub for the city's sizeable Japanese community and the Japanese restaurant is well worth a visit for lunch.

near Avenida Figueroa Alcorta
Avenida Casares 2966
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4804 4922.
Web: www.jardinjapones.com.ar
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Admission Fee: Yes


La Boca
This colourful barrio (neighbourhood) is best known for its football team, Boca Juniors, for whom the legendary Diego Maradona played. Multi-coloured, corrugated-iron houses characterise the touristic section of La Boca, with bustling Calle Caminito the main street. The simple houses were built by Italian immigrants, who decorated them with paint nicked from the local docks where they worked. Caminito and the immediate streets are continually lively, with street performers, artists and tango dancers all eager to win tourists' affections. Visitors should, however, avoid straying too far from Caminito. Catching a game at the Boca Juniors football team's stadium, La Bombonera, is certainly a passionate experience.

La Boca
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Evita
Inaugurated on the 50th anniversary of Evita's death (on 26 July 2002), the Museo Evita tells the life story of Eva Perón using a moving mixture of personal artefacts, dresses, photographs and compelling audiovisual displays. Already a famous radio and theatre actress in her own right, Eva Duarte became one of the most revered and reviled figures in Argentine history when she married Colonel Juan Domingo Perón (who was elected president in 1946) and used her position to further the rights and conditions of the working class. Her life came to an abrupt end in 1952 when she died of cancer, aged 33.

Calle Lafinur 2988
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4807 0306.
Web: museoevita.org
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1900.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
Housed in a red-brick, neoclassical building in the Recoleta district, Buenos Aires's airy National Fine Arts Museum contains European paintings and sculpture along with a complete collection of Argentine art. Downstairs, there are galleries devoted to Impressionists, such as Renoir, Monet, Degas, Pissarro and Sisley. Rubens, Rothko, Pollock and an assortment of other renowned artists also feature, along with internationally famous Argentine artist, Lucio Fontana. Visitors can also see the works of other Argentine artists and temporary exhibits on loan from international museums.

Avenida del Libertador 1473
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 5288 9900.
Web: www.mnba.org.ar
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1230-2030, Sat-Sun 0930-2030.
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
This ultra-modern building was built to house the Costantini collection of Latin American art and is a welcome addition to Buenos Aires's cultural landscape. The museum promotes appreciation of Latin American art from the early 20th century to the present day. Many Argentine artists are represented, including Xul Solar, Benito Quinquela Martín and Antonio Berni. Brazilian and Uruguayan works are also shown and a famous self-portrait by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. This light, airy gallery also has spaces for temporary exhibits, an outdoor sculpture balcony, gift shop, library and a smart café.

Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Tel: (011) 4808 6500.
Web: www.malba.org.ar
Opening hours: Thurs-Mon 1200-2000, Wed 1200-2100.
Admission Fee: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes


Plaza de Mayo
The dusty-pink Casa Rosada is the focal point of the Plaza de Mayo. From the balcony of this Presidential Palace, located at the historic heart of Buenos Aires, prominent figures, from Evita to Diego Maradona, have addressed the crowds at various stages in Argentina's history. Originally a fortress, the Casa Rosada was remodelled when Buenos Aires became the Capital of the Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata in 1776. Today, it looks out across a pigeon-filled plaza that features gardens, fountains and statues. Opposite, find the only surviving government building from colonial times – the Cabildo – constructed in 1748. Every Thursday, the Mothers of those who went missing during Argentina's late 20th-century military dictatorship march around the Plaza.

Plaza de Mayo (Eastern end of Avenida de Mayo)
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes


Puerto Madero
An ambitious regeneration project has turned this former working dock into a lively and popular area for a stroll, a drink or a bite to eat. The old, red-brick warehouses now house galleries, bars and restaurants, the grandest of which is the Faena Hotel and Universe, which encompasses a design hotel and cutting-edge eatery El Bistro. Old docking cranes line either side of the dock, which is spanned by the Puente de la Mujer ('Bridge of the Woman'). The area does feel a little sterile, but Puerto Madero is evolving an increasingly vibrant atmosphere as more projects are completed.

Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo
Docks 3 and 4
Buenos Aires
Argentina
Admission Fee: No
Disabled Access: Yes

Culture

If you're interested in sampling culture within the city, there is a wealth of things on offer.Music and Dance

Teatro Colón

The recently refurbished Teatro Colón is home to the Buenos Aires Philharmonic, and sometimes there are free classical music recitals held in the Salon Dorado (Gold Room). Opera, also performed by the Philharmonic, is of a high standard. Ballet is also performed here. However, tango is by far the dominant dance form, and tango shows can be viewed in countless bars, cultural centres and even in the city streets.

Cerrito 628, Centro
Tel: (011) 4378 7100.
Website: www.teatrocolon.org.ar

Theatre

Teatro del Pueblo

The independent Teatro del Pueblo is a small-scale performance space that stages both modern and traditional Argentine productions. Tickets are cheaper here than at many of the other theatres in Buenos Aires.

Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943, Centro
Tel: (011) 4326 3606.
Website: www.teatrodelpueblo.org.ar

Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires
Theatre is very popular in Buenos Aires, with a good mix of international and Argentine productions available to both locals and visitors. Complejo Teatral de Buenos Aires is a complex of five theatres, scattered throughout the city centre, which stage a varied programme of Argentine and international plays, as well as children's theatre.

Tel: (011) 4371 0111.
Website: www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar

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